This year my family took its annual summer vacation to the Central American nation of Belize. We traveled with another family from Charlotte, who had been there before. Between their stories and the things we discovered through our own research, we were pretty excited about this two-week adventure.
After a 3.5 hour flight from Charlotte, and a quick 15 minute flight from Belize City, we arrived on Caye Caulker by early afternoon. The first thing I noticed was the sky. It was blue. There was no haze in it. The second thing I noticed were the iguanas. Actual iguanas. They were everywhere. We stayed at a hotel on the north end of the small island, near the split where Hurricane Hattie cut the island in half in 1961, permanently separating the developed part of the island from the (yet) undeveloped part.
During our short ride from the air strip to our hotel (in a stretch golf cart), our driver, who sensed our excitement, smiled and said, “Go slow.” We did. I took three main things away from our two-week visit.
People. It usually takes me a few days to settle into relaxation mode when we go on vacation. Not this time. By day two I was barefoot and happy. The people were extremely welcoming. I figured that over the course of our stay, I’d peel back the layers to see something more sinister behind their smiles – like I did in the Bahamas last year – but it turned out that the people of Belize really have no ulterior motive. They’re just happy. Sure, they enjoy having your business – just like you enjoy being able to go to work and generate business (and a paycheck) in America. But their smiles and hugs are sincere. These are very happy people. And the beautiful part is that they’re all different: black, white, Spanish, Asian, rich, poor, Kriol, Mestizo, etc. etc. It’s as though everyone in Belize lives by a code – Go slow. Be happy. And these ideals extended far beyond the little island from where we launched our adventures. Everywhere we went on our trip we were met with authentic friendliness. It was like being in an episode of The Twilight Zone.
Water. Let me just say that while the Bahamas have the best beaches I’ve ever seen (note – I’m talking about the outer edge of the Abacos, not the resort islands), the water in Belize is clearer and the wildlife more abundant. Whether we were hanging out on our local reef, enjoying a three-day sailing excursion from Caye Caulker to Placencia, or visiting Hol Chan marine reserve, the water was ridiculous. We saw stingrays, sharks, eels, manatee, turtles, massive Nassau grouper, and huge schools of colorful fish. We even explored a shipwreck. There was also a dock next to our hotel where we took our daily swims and explored the seagrass for starfish, conch, stingrays, and jack. I was in the water every day. And when we weren’t swimming in it, we were traversing it, or getting caught in it.
Food. I went to Belize with the goal of avoiding processed food altogether. And next to drinking a few Cokes (made with ‘real’ sugar, though), I was able to reach my goal. We arrived in country just as lobster season was kicking off. Unfortunately, conch season had just ended, but the lobster more than made up for it. I had seafood daily. I was in heaven. We received fresh breakfast every day at our hotel – complete with fry jacks, beans, and fresh fruit. By the way – fry jacks? I can’t even explain how good they are. If the people were the best thing about Belize, the food was the second best thing. Yes, even trumping the water and other natural wonders. I ate my weight in cassava and plantain chips, and drank my weight in fresh lime juice. I’m told that the local beer and rum punch is good too – if you’re into that sort of thing.
I have never been more relaxed on a vacation (I went barefoot for all but two days), and have never felt more at home. Truly, I think I must have been drugged. I did routinely drink fresh coconut water, after all. In fact, I’m currently trying to figure out a way to spend more time there. We spent a night on Rendezvous Caye during a new moon – and that night I laid on my back and saw the Milky Way. It was like looking into the beard of God.
I’m convinced that somewhere in Belize, there is a ticking crocodile and a fairy who sprinkles pixie dust.
Let me sum up our visit in two words: Go. Slow.
Click here for the Flickr gallery of our trip. Click here for a video of our trip.
***
Bryan
Jul 25, 2013
Representing in the last pic, Shannon Park pool! My only hope is that our kids were half as affected by our trip to Costa Rica last summer as I was. Seems your’s had a blast as well. So worth the effort, planning, saving.
Kim
Jul 26, 2013
Awesome ! I am glad you love Belize so much. I love it too 🙂
Pauline Fisk
Jul 27, 2013
Thank you so much for this. It came up on my FB newsfeed. I went out to Belize for 6 weeks back in 2008. Like you I headed straight out to Caye Caulker, but then I went west to Chiquibul where I spent a sometimes scary and challenging, but life-changing time trekking in the jungle. Then I went south and stayed with the Kekchi-Mayan people of Toledo District, in the region of Punta Gorda.
I’m with you on everything you say about the Belizean people. THis truly is a remarkable country and I will love and appreciate it for the rest of my life. I was there as an author on a British Arts Council grant researching the phenomenon of gap year volunteering. The novel that came as a result of my time there is called In the Trees. Look for it under the author name Pauline Fisk, and I’m sure you’ll come across it. On my website I write extensively about my time in Belize, though you’d have to scroll right back to the beginning to get things in the right chronological order.
Thank you for your lovely post, which has taken me right back there. Just one last thing? Did you get to hear the Paranda music of Paul Nabor? His song Naguya Nei is unforgettable. Look it up.
All best,
Pauline Fisk
DEL DIXON-MURRAY
Jul 27, 2013
I am glad your family was able to feel the free spirit of my great country, Belize. I miss all of the good people and all the fun while I’m here in the states, but I go home every year to enjoy it.
Amber
Jul 27, 2013
You have no idea how many smiles, tears and chills you’ve generated with this post. As a proud Belizean I’d like to thank you for sharing your story. It makes me happy to think that because of it more people will get to experience the jewel that is our little Belize. <3 There's no place like home!
Nichole
Jul 27, 2013
I’ll take your advice. I’ve already told Bo that we’re going. 🙂
I haven’t been so curious about a place since my youthful fascination with Paris.
Joanna Evans
Jul 27, 2013
I loved reading this! As a belizean it made me so proud and even emotional that you fell as in love with my country as I have always been. Thank you for sharing this. There’s just so much goodness in here.
Marty
Jul 28, 2013
Great write up!
Sums up how my wife and I feel about Belize as well.
We had a very similar experience the few times we have been.
So much so, we are coordinating and planning our permanent move there 🙂 [San Ignacio]
andrea
Jul 28, 2013
I grew up in Belize and it has been very hard for me to describe my childhood to friends without sounding boastful or as if I was fabricating stories. You are right, life in Belize is just different; the people and the food and the places are real and simply refreshing. I don’t visit as often as I like, but when I do I am a child again with my toes in the sand and salt in my hair and I am happy just being me.
Joyce
Jul 28, 2013
I’m so happy you are an Author really enjoyed your blog on Belize……… so very happy your family experienced this in Belize we have lived here 9 years .. coming from Los Angeles and travelled all our lives with our babies …from 1978 originally from the UK we also have ” Come Home” here in Belize .. Love this Land and the People of this land !!
James Flowers
Jul 29, 2013
Nice article! Caye Caulker is my favorite place to visit in Belize and their motto is right – you got to go SLOW!
Marcia Faux
Jul 30, 2013
I am glad that you and your family got a chance to experience our beautiful country, ‘Mother Nature’s best kept secret’ as we say here. Your story touched me, made me proud to be a Belizean. We can’t wait to welcome you guys back home.
Yeasha Alexander
Jul 30, 2013
This article just makes my heart smile. I am blessed to be a Belizean.
Thank you for writing such an amazing article with such love and honesty.
I know that every country has their shortcomings but despite that, once one is willing to be open,
they can experience the beauty in God’s creation wherever they find themselves.
Reading this makes me miss home so much, but I’m blessed to be where I today. One more, thank you and God bless.
John
Jul 30, 2013
What she said…
Ernest Acosta
Aug 3, 2013
Thank you for enjoying my country. Caye Caulker is beautiful. My cousin is a policeman on the island. I’m always envy of him that every day he goes to work in paradise. Thank you for again for your kind words. San Pedro/Ambergris Caye is a larger island and much more tourist-e but Caye Caulker is old world charm with laid back living.
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[…] Jim and his lovely family spent two weeks in Belize and left enamoured. The food, the water, the people…it all captivated them. I had to move to Toronto to understand how nice the slow-paced life in Belize is. In the US and Canada, life is hectic and people pride themselves in being busy! I tell all my friends, “you need to learn to relax.” http://www.obsessedwithconformity.com/1822/belize/ […]
Christine Boyter
Jan 30, 2014
Belize is my favorite place on planet Earth. My husband and I went 3 times when our children were babies……10 years ago. We return in April…..this time with a 13 and 11 year old. There are no words to describe how much we are looking forward to this:).
Jeanie
Jan 30, 2014
Wonderful write up! I’m with you on all accounts! Most relaxing place, go slow starts the moment you hit the island! Everything fresh, bare feet everywhere, the people together food, the water… I’m ready! August was too long ago. I want to know more about living there so we can make that happen soon!
tacogirl
Feb 6, 2014
Great write up and pictures.
Patricia Beet
Feb 21, 2014
Enjoyed your article. Belize is blessed with so many good things and people. Its always heartwarming to read articles like yours while away from home. Looking forward to hearing morr ftom you. Years ago an amish girl wrote a book ‘to Belize with love’. Sometimes we take things for granted. Glad that I am belizean by birth.
Stephen Glastonbury
Jun 3, 2014
I am so glad that you enjoyed our little piece of paradise please come back to visit us again one day.
Michelle Coye
Jun 4, 2014
My cousin shared your story on her Facebook page. I was happy to hear that you and your family had a blessed and amazing adventure in Belize. Now you know that you Better Belize it! Hope you return!
Belizeansiren
Jun 4, 2014
It’s always nice to see compliments to my country in writing. I Was there with my kids July/Aug 2013 to visit my grandfather and I almost stayed…I had forgotten how slow life can be and it was the change I needed. I am glad you enjoyed my country as much as I do..Blessings!
Morgan C
Jun 5, 2014
So glad you enjoyed my island and country!! Belizeans are generally warm & friendly people, but like everywhere in the world, there ARE sketchy people with ulterior motives. You just need to be able to tell them apart from the rest!! If you’re interested, perhaps you should try visiting our Forest Reserve on the North part of the island! You might enjoy it.
Jim Mitchem
Jun 5, 2014
North part of which island, Morgan? Caye Caulker? I thought were were as north as we could get there. Anyway, send more info? We’ll be back in a month.
hollee thornton
Jun 5, 2014
We are currently Swiss Expats, have a home in Charleston SC and consider Greenville SC home but neither my husband or I grew up there. We visited Belize a few years ago for a short 4 day getaway- first time we had left our kids for that long. I really thought we would be exhausted upon return because it usually takes a few days to even get relaxed (as you mentioned) and with all the scuba diving we planned to do I figured it would feel rushed. But I also experienced the feeling of calm, relaxation, tranquility immediately. It took no time at all for us to fall in Love with the country and we can’t wait to return. At the moment we are spending our vacation time visiting this side of the world but we hope to someday settle in Belize. I loved this post and was surprised that our experience was so similar. I kinda think though, maybe we should be keeping this little secret to our selfs:). Great post! p.s. did you charter the sail boat and if so can you share company details etc?
Jim Mitchem
Jun 5, 2014
Hi Hollee – you might be right about keeping this to ourselves. Seeing a lot more people talking about moving to Belize, lately. We’ll be back in a month and are visiting a few different places in-country to get a broad view of life there and see if there’s a particular spot we prefer. Anyway, that sailing charter is Raggamuffin Tours out of Caye Caulker: http://raggamuffintours.com/category/belize/
Jeanie Alksne
Jun 5, 2014
Totally agree ragamuffin tours are amazing! I will never forget the first trip and have been going back to caye caulker regularly bringing back friends and family, it is wonderful there in every way!
Dondiego
Jun 5, 2014
Enjoyed reading this post. It was well written and is reflective of how many people feel about our treasure Belize. Man/Woman wasn’t meant to be divorced from nature. The feelings of ease and joy experienced in Belize is a testament to that fact.
http://www.bitcoinbelize.org
Jim Mitchem
Jun 5, 2014
Thanks.
Lady Morant
Jun 5, 2014
There is no place like home. Growing up there was the best thing my parents could ever have done for me. Everywhere else I go pales in comparison to home. I am glad you love it too. Although I am raising children in South FL we will be retiring to Belize.
Terry Depaz
Jun 5, 2014
I must say I enjoyed reading your article. It was good to read about your vacation in my home country after not being back in over a decade! To me Belize is simply breathtaking. Go Slow Its The way to Go!!
Martha Castillo-Perez
Jun 5, 2014
Thank you so much for enjoying my Beautiful Country…Belize, and for calling it the most beautiful place in the world, and most of all for appreciating our people, our culture and food!
Gabriella Sannino
Jul 5, 2014
Excellent, I’ve heard wonderful things about Belize. After reading your post and seeing the pictures, you’ve given me that extra push!
I kow I can’t retire in Italy (even though that’s where I have family) it’s too crazy politically, and economically it sucks. I’ve considered the Philippines,Thailand, Panama & Belize. It won’t be as hard for me, it’s more MK, she speaks English and German compared to my five languages. But, between the two of us though we should be fine communicating.
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Scott
Aug 30, 2014
Jimbo, sweet use of the fisheye on these images, especially the sandy lane on the Caye. I love how the deliberate curvature of the trees and poles create an entryway into the photograph that produces a visual resolution for the subject matter in the center. On my trip I’ll be sure to keep that in mind when I snap a few!
Jim Mitchem
Aug 31, 2014
Thanks.
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Fred Burns
Jul 30, 2016
Miss my beloved Belize and my people. But one day I’ll be back good. You betta Belize It!
Got chills reading your article. Felt as though I was there. That boat jungle ride started close to my home town Orange Walk Town. Jah Bless ✌
John Bueckert
Aug 1, 2016
You better Belize it!
My novel – Minor King
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